So having completed the morning walk at Rainbow Beach I followed the ‘tourist drive’ – my usual choice of route (trust me the Bruce Highway is certainly not my favourite road and poor George doesn’t like been passed by semi trailers travelling 110km/hr on such a skinny road) to Tin Can Bay. As usual the guide books made out a beautiful seaside fishing town apparently with dolphins playing in the bay, but to be honest I was a tad disappointed when I realised dolphins only came at 8am for feeding and the town was dead with about 50 4WDs parked with their boat trailers. The fish and chip shop looked to be a centrepiece of the town so I grabbed a little package for myself and ate lunch in the park and then went back for a take home marinara mix that I cooked up for dinner. Next stop was Hervey Bay to prepare for my trip to Fraser Island. I had a lovely evening swim in the public pool where I watched the sun set behind the palm tress and then did a couple of kms under the stars.
So my Fraser Island experience was amazing! I did a tour with a group called CoolDingos. I was a little sceptical because it was one of the more expensive tours but it was only for young travellers and included more sights and meals than what other company’s offered. After an early start our group caught the ferry across to Kingfisher Resort on the Island. We met our guide Craig and jumped on board our 4wd bus. At the start, the journey was how I imagine riding one of those bucking bull rides would be, but by the end of the second day I found the jerky and bumpy ride through the sandy forests so relaxing I almost fell asleep! Or maybe my 4pm closey eye was due to the days being so jam-packed. From swimming in the clear fresh water lakes, hiking up the mountains and encountering a phenomenal amount of wildlife, cruising at 80km/hr along the Fraser M1 aka the 75 mile beach on the east coast past a ship wreck and aboriginal sights, to lounging in the champaign pools the activities were endless. Aside from the activities the food was great – pretty sure I ate more in two days than the previous 2 weeks, and I met some great people from all over the world with some great stories. So now I have a few more overseas contacts and a couple of travel buddies for other parts of my trip!
Returning from Fraser Island I had another night in Hervey Bay and then headed off for another National Park walk near the small beachside town of Woodgate Beach. Although the town was pretty I am pretty sure the only reason the National Park has gained its credentials is because it is the home of thousands and thousands of insects! Trying to beat the sunset and make it to camp by dark I did not appreciate being covered in mozzies and breaking through at least 3 spider webs across the track every 10m! And by the time I finally set up my tent and started cooking I realised I was next to an ant nest, the mozzies didn’t want to go bed and there were moths swarming around my head torch. After a rather frustrating night I was up, fed and back on the walking track by 7.15 and not in the greatest of moods.
Anyway to brighten up my mood I headed to Bundaberg which I discovered is nothing more than a small country town – with all shops seemingly closed because it was Sunday. I continued driving through the endless sugar cane fields to the beach where I was apparently able to witness Turtle Hatchings on dusk. Arriving at the information centre I was face with a sign informing me that the ‘turtle hatching season’ had ended the previous weekend. A bit over everything I went for a quick dip at the beach (swell height 2mm L) and then made friends with three other vans of backpackers from Holland, Canada, Germany and England. After the typical ‘where to camp for free chat’ we headed back inland through Bundaberg to a cane toad infested campsite. With far less insects however and some good company I had a good night and great sleep until the next morning I realised that my legs were covered in bites. Still not sure if they’re from the National Park experience or maybe the annoying possibility that George has fleas... Just to be sure I went and purchased some new ‘tropical strength’ mozzie repellent, some mortien for my bed and a bottle of stingoes – which I finished in 3 days (consequently walking around with a white paste all over the back of my legs)!
Anyway to turn what has seemed like a rather depressing blog entry so far, I then went on a tour at the Bundaberg Rum Factory. It was actually really fun and interactive and interesting but unfortunately I couldn’t make the most of the free tastes at the end due to the nature of my ‘road’ trip. Nevermind, what I did taste was good and although I’ve never been a big fan of Bundy and Coke I now have a few other mixed combinations that I like.
Next destination was the town of 1770 and Agnes Waters. I came into town crossing my fingers and praying that I wouldn’t run out of petrol and thank goodness George made it with 2.3L in the tank! I saw a magnificent sunset on the bay at 1770 then headed back to Agnes Water to stay the night next to the surf beach – the last place with waves on my journey – and as I now realize the last place where you can swim without wearing a stupid stinger suit! However my time in Agnes Water was not so ideal as there was no waves and I arrived in time for a massive downpour of rain where everything got wet – sheets, towels, pillows grrrrrr! The following night I camped in the bush camp down the road having spent a day twiddling my thumbs and actually watching a movie (in the day!!) because I was bored due to the endless rain. I did managed to get out to the 1770 lookout and see the cairn for the first place that white man (Captian Cook) set foot in Queensland in 1770. This was also the first and only day I have not worn shorts and have felt cold in my whole trip!!
Setting off from Agnes Water I had a big few days of driving ahead through ‘nothing’ towns ie towns that have nothing of interest on the tourist guides and maps. Although some brochures somehow manage to make even the most boring (in my opinion) towns/cities seem appealing. After stopping off in Gladstone for a picnic in the park and a swim I then proceeded on to Rockhampton and stayed in a caravan park by the river. Traveling alone and arriving in towns/cities looking for a campsite is frustrating, there’s a constant weigh up of whether to risk a fine/local hoons or paying to go to a caravan park where you get decent sleep and a hot shower – not that I’ve even been bothering to turn on the hot water with this humidity! I’ve decided that when I’m not with other campers that I should opt for the caravan park option and so I’ve been doing that in all the recent towns: Rocky, Mackay etc. With another long drive ahead I woke feeling a bit over it all and upon looking at the map and discovering Rockhampton airport there was a thought in the back of my mind to throw the towel in and just fly home! – I hate to admit! But after a morning watching of Gossip Girl I gained motivation and drove to Mt Archer National Park where I did a walk hoping to get views out to the ocean and the Great Barrier Reef where that Chinese coal ship was apparently anchored. Unfortunatley there were too many trees in the way, nevertheless it was a really nice walk and good source of motivation for the few hundred kilometer journey to Mackay.
Having arrived in Mackay at dusk I had a quick drive around town, contemplated camping in the foreshore carpark but then once again for security opted for a small caravan park on the highway out of town. Like Bundaberg, Gladstone, and Rockhampton I didn’t really find much to keep me in town so I headed off the next day for Airlie Beach where sure enough I would find heaps of backpackers and other campervans. Pulling up in the foreshore carpark yesterday afternoon there were 14 campervans, all different types, colours and filled with different nationalities. On my way to Airlie however I did go to the Cape Hillsborough National Park – a beautiful untouched peninsula looking out to the islands south of the Whitsundays. After lunch in the picnic groud I did the main walk thorugh rainforest filled with butterflies although slightly wrecked from the recent cyclone.
Anyway here I am in Airlie Beach, 8 days away from meeting Harriet in Cairns! Until next time, goodbye.
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